above--Arequipa, Perúbelow--Antigua, Guatemala

above--Arequipa, Perú
(click here to see current night/day view of the planet)
(cell-phone camera-view from last Saturday; this morning was pretty much the same...)W. H. Auden, the English poet, began one of his poems, a succinct description of what it feels like when a loved one dies, like this:
Stop all the clocks, cut off the telephone,
Prevent the dog from barking with a juicy bone,
Silence the pianos...
We stop to look at, and we try to remember to set clocks, and, not able to go back, we sometimes to try to stop what they tick off...
I'm not a huge fan of Charles Baudelaire, the 19th-century French poet, but his poem "L'Horloge" ("The Clock") comes to mind. In it, "The Clock" is personified as a 'sinister calm evil god' that 'time is a greedy gambler who always wins' and 'The Second whispers three thousand six hundred times every hour: 'remember!''...
Horloge ! dieu sinistre, effrayant , impassible,
Dont le doigt nous menace et nous dit : "Souviens-toi!
Les vibrantes Douleurs dans ton cour plein d'effroi
Se planteront bientôt comme dans une cible ;
Le Plaisir vaporeux fuira vers l'horizon
Ainsi qu'une sylphide au fond de la coulisse ;
Chaque instant te dévore un morceau du délice
A chaque homme accordé pour toute sa saison
Trois mille six cents fois par heure, la Seconde
Chuchote : Souviens-toi ! - Rapide, avec sa voix
D'insecte , Maintenant dit : je suis Autrefois,
Et j'ai pompé ta vie avec ma trompe immonde !
Remember ! Souviens-toi ! prodigue ! Esto memor !
(Mon gosier de métal parle toute les langues.)
Les minutes, mortel folatre, sont des gangues
Qu'il ne faut pas lâcher sans en extraire l'or !
Souviens toi que le temps est un joueur avide
Qui gagne sans tricher, à tout coup ! c'est la loi,
Le jour décroît ; la nuit augmente ; souviens-toi !
Le gouffre a toujours soif ; la clepsydre se vide.
Tantôt sonnera l'heure où le divin Hasard,
Où l'auguste Vertu, ton épouse encor vierge,
Où le Repentir même (oh ! la dernière auberge !) ,
Où tout dira : Meurs, vieux lâche ! il est trop tard !"
(click here for an English translation)
And each morning and night we look at ourselves in the bathroom mirror.
I'm reminded now, only somewhat morbidly, although not sadly, of Jean Cocteau, the French filmmaker and poet, who wrote this:
"...you, look at your life in a mirror and you see Death at work.”
What a soundtrack to brush your teeth by, eh?
Echoes of Ecclesiastes: "Better is it to go to the house of mourning than to the banquet house, because that is the end of all mankind; and the one alive should take it to his heart..." And yet it is not a diatribe against life: "all is vanity" while at the same time "I have come to know that there is nothing better for them than to rejoice and to do good during one's life; and also that every man should eat and indeed drink and see good for all his hard work. It is the gift of God."
It's been a good day, really: morning bike ride, a coyote crossing my path; getting to know new friends; live music in a sycamore-shaded courtyard; dinner around a firepit in the desert night; and looking forward to driving up to Phoenix tomorrow to see old friends......and, of course, more familiar creatures, the park's most famous residents; the mountain lions, whose exhibit has a thick glass window up in the craggy nook that allows visitors catnap views like this one:
...from cats to birds, now. Extreme southeastern Arizona--the Chiricahua mountain range--is the northernmost habitat limit for certain kinds of parrots. Very few, if any, remain (alas), but here's an example:
On a couple of our past visits, this guy has spoken, entertaining the tourists in the aviary...Yesterday he was silent, though.
I haven't had time to look these next couple of guys up, (maybe a more audobonically-aware reader can help us out?) but they sure are vivid:
They spend approximately 90% of their lives underground, so seeing them is a special occasion. About a year ago, I saw my first (and only) Gila in the wild; I was on a walk in Sabino Canyon with a friend visiting from France, and within one half-hour, he got a wildlife show: we saw the Gila monster, a rattler, several deer, many cottontail and jackrabbits, and roadrunners.
Okay, so now--I arrive at 'the four common factors.' As fearsome as rattlesnakes are, statistically you are more likely to be in a plane crash than to be bit by a rattlesnake, who will only ever bite in self-defense. The actual factual four common characteristics, now, that most rattlesnake victims share, according to anecdotal evidence from medical caregivers:
1. They are male. 2. They are tattooed. 3. They are not in possession of all their teeth. 4. They've been drinking beer.
'Seriously, I can't make this stuff up folks', the herpetologist-presenter told the laughing audience.
Hearing that profile, I felt pretty safe, then. But it did sober us, especially my wife, as we thought back to her close (one and only, so far) encounter with a rattler back in the spring...
A few more factoids about rattlesnakes--you canNOT tell their age by counting the segments on their rattles; that's a myth. And, unlike most reptiles, they don't lay eggs; they give birth to live young. And the average cost for each little vial of anti-venom, in case you're interested in medical costs, is three THOUSAND dollars. The average number of vials of anti-venom needed to treat a bite-victim: TWENTY. (All the rattlesnake anti-venom that is used in the US is manufactured in Britain, incidentally.)
From the deadly to the cute. Come on, you gotta admit it:
Prairie-dogs. Common in much of the Western U.S. Formerly common in the higher-elevation grasslands of Arizona; now extinct in the wild here.

Seriously, they'd never heard of "The Alps."
Also, very few kids had ever seen "The Sound of Music." 


The immensity of the Eiger-Mönch-Jungfrau massif is impossible to convey in a photograph. The verticality is overwhelming. Coming into the Lauterbrunnen valley from Interlaken (1864 ft. above sea level), you round a bend, and then immediately, you have to crane your neck to look to the top of the 13,025 ft-high peak of the Eiger; over eleven-thousand feet almost directly skyward, in your face. The setting is, forgive the unimaginative travel-writer-ese, seriously, one of the most beautiful spots on Earth:

--the southern Swiss town of Sion, the medieval bastion garding the Rhône-valley. Two outcroppings topped with the two powers of the Middle Ages--temporal, a castle on the left; ecclesiastical, a church on the right. Climbing to the top of the rocky hill on the left,
I got this view of the fields to the east, where the language changes to German a few miles upriver:


Tunnels, bridges...the metaphor of 'swiss cheese' is inevitable. And yes, you can set your watch by the train.
Note carefully his head. It's one of many depictions of Moses in European art based on a mistranslation of the Bible. When Moses came down from Sinai, it is said that 'face emitted rays' from having been in the divine presence. Up until the Renaissance, that passage was translated more or less as 'his head sprouted horns.' Oops. Several centuries older is the Église Collégiale in Neuchâtel, with this Romanesque portal:
That's Paul the Apostle, being poked in his side by a demon-like figure. Recall how Paul writes of being tormented by a 'thorn in flesh'. Here's an ancient 3-D comic-book-representation of it. Many church façades in the Medieval period would have been painted in bright colors--truly comic-book-esque...
It's hard to top that, for a Sunday morning...I've tried, since...
Not far from Neuchâtel is Gruyère. Yes, as in the cheese. Gruyère is a village and a region, and all the Gruyère cheese in the world (if it's authentic) comes from these slopes and fields just beyond this castle garden:

...and finally, tonight: you can't look at images of Switzerland without thinking of cows. They are ever present in this mountain-bastion of dairy production. Hiking on trails above treeline, you'll hear their bells tinkling below you...and every morning with your black black black coffee there'll be freshly heated vollmilch to make your café au lait.
In the spring of the year I lived in Paris, my mother came to visit, and I was able to take her to Switzerland--one of her lifelong dreams. We paid the requisite visit to Heidiland, the region near the Austrian border where the famous stories are set. And here, on newly green pasture, were two happy cows.

Happy cows. Happy meadow. Alles gute...
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Some local minutiae, now. The weather's cooled down enough to plant cilantro again. It actually got below 40 degrees the other morning. But warm afternoons...Sunrise is too late now for me to go on my morning jog--too dark. Hello gym. And my Saturday-morning bike rides will have to wait until next spring, when it's light at 5:30 again...This weekend a couple of childhood friends--who've been married to each other for ten years now--are coming for a visit, their first time to AZ...Looking forward to introducing them to the local joys of 'cheese crisp' and the Arizona-Sonora-Desert Museum, which was recently designated one of the best zoos/botanical gardens in the country...